At some point, every house in Australia is going to be migrated to the NBN. We are not going to get into the politics or rights and wrongs of it; we are just going to talk about what you can expect and where there are potential problems or pitfalls you may run into that we have gleaned from personal experience.
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The Essentials – Your New Equipment
When you sign up for the NBN, you are going to get a few shiny new pieces of equipment:
- NBN Utility Box – installed on an outside wall of your property
- NBN Connection Box – installed inside your property and is the thing that your broadband modem is connected to.
- New Modem (optional) – this comes from your internet provider as most existing modems are not NBN compatible.
So far, so good. But it amazing how installing just three little bits of equipment can go wrong.
There are a stack of flavours of NBN, with different areas being connected in different ways. Depending on your location, you may get a fibre-to-the-premises, fibre-to-the-node, fibre-to-the-basement, fibre-to-the-distribution-point, HFC Cable, Fixed wireless or Satellite (Sky Muster) connection.
It pays to know what type of connection you are getting, as most internet providers have different divisions handling the different types, which means you can get the major run-around if you click the wrong one when facing their automated phone “click 1 for HFC, 2 for fibre-to-the-premises” choices.
NBN Co is the peak body in charge of the NBN rollout. Check out their website for more information about the different types of NBN and to find out what you will be getting at your property.
Image Source: Telstra
Potential Problem 1: Laying Cable from the street to your home
Before you can get NBN connected, you may need to have a trench dug through your prized petunias in your front garden, from the street to your home.
Generally, the trench diggers and cablers will take the easiest route to your home, so although you may want your utility box to be in a certain place on the outside of your home, the cablers may have other ideas.
While they will try and consider your wishes, jackhammering up expensive driveways, concrete footpaths or digging through retaining walls is not their preferred method of installation. However, be aware that your turf or plants may be removed to make the installation happen.
The trench diggers and cablers are supposed to return your property to as good a condition as possible, although if they did have to cut through concrete, it will never be perfect.
A standard installation allows for 60 metres of cabling from the street to the Utility Box, although we have heard stories from our clients of installers bucking at more than 10 metres and demanding extra payment from the homeowner.
To be fair, a lot of the contracts for the connecting of the NBN to homes is at a fixed price for the installer, so a tricky install and rectification can cost the installer big money. It’s not supposed to be your problem but it is something to bear in mind.
Potential Problem 2: The Utility Box Location
The utility box is the outside piece of equipment and is connected to an outside wall of your home. It must be in a dry location, easily accessible and clear of obstructions. The utility box location must join the end of the cable, which is why many homes now have a permanent not-so-decorative feature on the front of their home rather than around the side where they owner preferred.
Of course, the team who digs the trench will rarely be the same team that installs the utility box, so the connection of the cable to the utility box happens over at least two visits.
In the MBRC and BCC, we have heard of many cases where people have had the utility box installers turn up, only to find that the cables haven’t yet been laid. This means your NBN installation gets bumped to the back of the queue while the cables and trenches are done. Only then does the installer come back for another visit.
Potential Problem 3: The NBN Connection Box Location
Where your NBN Connection Box is located can determine the speeds you get from your connection. Your connection box needs to be within 3 metres of a 240V power point and ideally located near the current main internet connection or telephone point where you may already have the network cabling installed out to the rest of your home .
Theoretically, a standard installation allows 40 metres of cabling from the utility box to your NBN Connection Box inside your home.
What we are finding from client after client, is that the NBN Connection Box Installers aim to install the NBN Connection Box directly through the wall closest to the utility box (no matter if it is a living room, kid’s bedroom or bathroom). They are totally ignoring the recommendation for it to be near your current main internet connection or phone point.
If you push hard, you may get the installation shifted down one room, but be prepared to negotiate (i.e. heatedly argue) to make that happen.
If the installer refuses to install the NBN Connection Box where you want it (e.g. your home office or kitchen), they may tell you that you need an electrical contractor to run the cables for you from your preferred location back to the NBN Connection Box. Of course, this is at your cost.
We get called to multiple clients each week, working out ways to get cabling from the NBN Utility Box to the client’s preferred location for the NBN Connection Box.
Once your electrician has run the cables to where you want it, then the NBN installers may have to come back and connect the cables to the Utility Box, and add in a new wall socket to connect the NBN Connection Box.
We also get regular callouts where the NBN Connection Box installer has done a dreadful job with the wiring. We have seen cables running across floors, hanging down from ceilings and dangling from staircases. We then have to work to create a neat, safe and tidy installation for our clients (all at more cost to our clients).
Potential Problem 4: No Phone Sockets
NBN Connection generally means no existing phone sockets in your home will work. You either need to have them rewired (at your expense) or purchase wireless phone handsets that connect back to a base that is plugged into your modem (at your expense). In some instances if the old incoming 2 pair copper cable is disconnected from the existing phone points the phone jack on the NBN modem can be “patched” into a nearby socket enabling those sockets to become active.
Potential Problem 5: Alarms May Need Replacing or Rewiring
If you have an existing security or fire alarm system, it may no longer work when you have the NBN Installed. You need to contact your alarm provider before you get connected to find out what changes you will need to make, and you may need additional wiring installed. Some of the alarm companies are going to 3G dialler units to allow your alarm to ring out on the mobile network but be aware that this may be at an extra cost, and if your alarm unit is in a cupboard behind a stack of your old shoes the coverage may be non-existent or patchy.
Potential Problem 6: Medical Alarms and Emergency Auto Diallers Not Working
If you have a medical alarm or emergency auto dialler, you need to register it on the NBN’s Medical Alarm Register. This is supposed to minimise any problems during the transfer to the NBN.
Before you connect, make sure you contact your medical alarm provider to find out if your device will continue to work on the NBN, and if you need an alternative system.
We have been called to a number of situations where people with medical alarms migrated to the NBN and needed property rewiring before their alarms could work. This meant their alarms were out of action for periods of time.
Our biggest tip is if you have a medical alarm or alert, make 100% sure that your devices are compatible before you allow anyone to flick the switch to NBN on your home. Again, a lot of these units are being swapped for 3G compatible diallers but be aware of connection or coverage problems.
Also, if you have friends or relatives with medical alarms who are getting NBN installed, try and be there for each installation appointment, so you can troubleshoot and negotiate on their behalf. We have heard and read about horror stories where alerts are disconnected and the person has no way to call for help.
Remember that any electrical equipment connected to the NBN won’t work during a blackout (which includes your medical alarms). You will need to make sure that your NBN installation has a battery backup to give you a few hours of coverage during blackouts.
Potential Problem 7: Payment Terminals & Health Claims Terminals
If you use EFTPOS or Hicaps in your business, the terminals may not be NBN compatible so you may need new ones or new wiring installed. You also have the problem that in a blackout, these terminals won’t work so that you may need a battery backup for your NBN installation.
Potential Problem 8: Emergency Phones in Lifts, Teletypes, Faxes
Other things that may not work when your NBN is connected are the emergency phone in your lifts, teletype machines for hearing impaired people and your humble fax machine. Again, speak with the provider of your equipment to check compatibility before you connect.
Potential Problem 9: Telstra Velocity Areas – Free to Air TV
Some areas had their free to air TV delivered via cable through the Telstra Velocity scheme. NBN installation can create problems if connections need to be rectified and the poor sparkies are not aware of the Velocity program. If you are in a Telstra Velocity area, make sure that your electrician is aware of it and what it means before they do any NBN related work.
Last thoughts
While the NBN promises a lot regarding internet speed to homes, there are many potential problems that you need to sort through before you can sit back and binge watch Game of Thrones episodes on your home computer.
Avast antivirus free trial pro offline installer download. If you need a hand getting your connection to where you want it to be, or rewiring connections for safety, then give us a call.
Need help getting your NBN connection where you want it? Call us!
Buy a socket set with these features
I’ve been using socket sets my whole life and I can tell you that making the wrong choice can make the difference between getting the job done or quitting in frustration. You’ll have many choices in brands and features and it can be very confusing, so I’ll walk you through the terms and help you with picking the best features. Here are the features and brands to consider when you buy a socket set.
Socket set drive size
Socket sets are sold by drive size. That refers to the size of the square drive “tang” that the socket snaps onto. Most socket sets for home use are ¼-in., 3/8-in, and ½-in. drive. You’ll use ¼-in drive sockets for small fasteners or when working in tight places. Most automotive and lawn machine fasteners will use 3/8-in. drive sockets. But heavy-duty auto work will often require ½-in. drive sockets.
The ratchet is king
Aside from socket size marking and point count (more on that later), the most important piece of a socket set is the ratchet. Handle length, tooth count, and finish rule the day when choosing a ratchet. The ratchet that comes with most sets is ok if you’re working on small appliances and fasteners that aren’t rusted. But if you plan to work on your car or truck or lawn equipment that short socket just isn’t going to cut it. You need a long-handled ratchet to get more leverage.
Ratchet handle length
Most socket sets come with a 7” ratchet. That’s simply not long enough leverage for repairs on rusted fasteners. So you’ll need to supplement the set with at least one long-handled ratchet.
Longer ratchets come in 12”, 18” and 20” lengths. Longer handled ratchets give you more leverage, but also require more working space, so you will need an assortment of sizes.
Ratchet head style
Ratchets come in two basic styles; round head and tear-drop. Round-headed ratchets used to be the standard, but they’re going out of style because the tear-drop design offers more advantages.
The reversing mechanisms on round head ratchets are awkward to work, especially in tight places because you often can’t reach the dial to change direction when the ratchet is in place. The tear-drop style, on the other hand, utilizes a lever that you can operate with your thumb.
Flex head and gimble head ratchet
In addition to round versus tear-drop, ratchet heads can have a flex joint or a gimble. Both styles allow you to get into tight places and move the handle away from the fastener.
Ratchet head tooth count is critical
The gear inside the ratchet head has teeth around the circumference. The number of teeth determines how far you have to move the ratchet handle to engage the next tooth. Coarse ratchets often have just 24 or 36 teeth, so you have to rotate the handle at least 10° to engage the next tooth. That can be a real challenge in an engine compartment or deep inside your clothes dryer. Fine tooth ratchets, on the other hand, have many more teeth, which means you don’t have to swing the handle as far. See the image below to see what a difference the number of ratchet teeth makes
FINE TOOTH Ratchet MYTH Busting
Many DIYers and even some pros think that a fine-tooth ratchet can’t handle as much torque as the same size coarse ratchet. Not true. Even though the teeth on a fine-tooth ratchet gear are smaller than a coarse toothed gear, there are many more pawl engagement teeth to spread the torque to multiple teeth. A 3/8″ drive fine-tooth ratchet is tested to the same torque as a 3/8″ drive coarse drive ratchet. Myth busted!
Ratchet handle features
Choose from plain or polished finish, cushioned and bent. A plain finish ratchet is harder to clean, requiring a squirt of degreaser to remove dirt and grease, while a polished finish just wipes off. A cushioned grip is a bit easier on your hands, but also requires more cleaning. Lastly, a bent handle allows you to move the handle away from obstacles. That’s especially important when you’re working in tight spaces.
Ratchet Quick-release feature
Some ratchet heads include a push-button socket release feature. This works really well when you’re working in a greasy environment. Instead of trying to pry a greasy socket off the ratchet, simply push the button and the socket falls off.
Quick release ratchet
Does Socket Have Free Installation Program
Socket types
Chrome versus black impact sockets
Sockets come in chrome and impact types. Chrome sockets have thinner walls than impact sockets and can shatter if used with an impact wrench or impact driver. Chrome sockets can’t be used with power impact tools, only hand ratchets. If you plan to use a battery-powered or air-powered impact driver, buy impact-rated sockets.
6-point versus 12-point sockets
In addition to chrome and black impact, sockets have 6, 8, or 12 “points of contact” inside the socket. 8-point sockets are used to install and remove square nuts and bolts. Since most modern fasteners are hexagonal, you’ll rarely, if ever, need 8-point sockets unless you’re working on very old homes.
Socket manufacturers often include 12-point sockets in their sets, but trust me, you don’t want them. The advantage of a 12-point socket is that you only had to rotate the socket 30° to fit it onto a hex fastener, while you have to move a 6-point socket 60°. The downside to a 12-point socket is that they’re far more likely to strip the head of a worn or rusty hex bolt head or nut. Socket manufacturers deny this but survey any auto tech and you’ll find they all use 6-point sockets.
Deep versus shallow sockets
You’ll need the depth of a deep socket any time you’re trying to remove a nut from a stud or a bolt with many exposed threads. But you can also use a deep socket in applications where the extension bar in your socket set is too long. Aside from those two uses, you’ll mostly use shallow sockets.
How many pieces in the socket set?
Sellers often confuse buyers by adding accessories pieces that you’ll rarely use to boost the perceived size of the socket set. They do that to create the illusion that the increased piece count is a better set. For example, they’ll add flat, Torx, hex, and Philips screwdriver bits. They’re nice to have, but chances are you already have them. Plus, when it comes to socket sets, having the widest range of socket sizes is what’s most important, NOT whether the set includes accessory bits. What good is an extra Philips bit if the set doesn’t have the right size socket for the job?
In other words, when it comes to socket set piece count, the number of sockets is really the only number that counts. NOT the accessories.
What are the best socket set brands?
Most consumer-grade socket sets are made in Taiwan or China. But there are cheap sets and high-quality sets. What’s the difference? The quality of the finish, the size markings on the sockets, the degree of precision in the ratchet, and the warranty and how you obtain warranty service. Some brands offer an over-the-counter exchange for a broken socket, while others make you mail the defective socket back to the manufacturer.
Here are the socket set brands I like:
Gearwrench
Kobalt
DeWalt
Stanley
Husky (made by Stanley)
Kobalt
DeWalt
Stanley
Husky (made by Stanley)
What about Harbor Freight Socket Sets?
I own Snap-On, Craftsman, S&K, Matco and Harbor Freight sockets. The Harbor Freight sockets work just fine, even though they’re the cheapest. But I hate their ratchets. I find their ratchet mechanisms to be rough and hard to reverse. They bind up. I hate them. If you buy Harbor Freight, buy just their sockets and buy ratchets from the companies listed above.
Socket set Warranty
Many socket set manufacturers offer a lifetime warranty, but it usually only applies to the sockets, not the ratchet. To obtain warranty service on a socket, you’ll most likely have to mail it in, which will probably cost more than buying a new socket.
Replacement ratchet parts
Ratchets wear out with daily use and then can get damaged from rust. Many manufacturers offer ratchet rebuilt kits that can put your ratchet back into new condition.
The socket set case
This is a tough one because it’s hard to determine the quality of the case when you’re ordering online. Poorly designed cases make you fight to insert and remove the sockets, or they’re so loose, the sockets fall out as soon as you open the case. If at all possible, try removing and inserting the parts before you buy. If you’re buying online, read the reviews.
©, 2019 Rick Muscoplat
Posted on by Rick Muscoplat